Proceed to the Schlossberg cutoff, then...

Weinbach 1998 Riesling Schlossberg “Cuvée Ste-Catherine” (Alsace) – Shockingly advanced. Very dark, and showing something that’s not quite oxidation (aside from the usual oxidative character that imbues really old wines), but rather the dusty creaminess of a much older riesling. The metallic edginess of the vineyard is still present, but starting to be overwhelmed by the aged characteristics. I doubt this is a typical performance for this wine, and though I don’t know where to place the blame for the quick maturity (heat damage is unlikely, cork failure is more likely), those who own it in quantity might want to check on a bottle, just to be sure. (5/10)

Schwach the monkey

Bernard Schwach “Domaine du Moulin de Dusenbach” 2004 Riesling Schlossberg (Alsace) – Piercing, high-minded and treble-toned minerality comes off the wine in flakes. Long and really, really good. (6/08)