I Felton itch

Felton Road 2007 Pinot Noir (Central Otago) – I don’t know if the expanding range of single-site pinots being produced at Felton Road are changing the nature of the basic wine or not, but it seems a little simpler than I remember. Simpler, but fuller, so there’s a tradeoff in both good and less good ways. Here is the more familiar plum, beet, orange peel of the Central Otago, without the poise that the entire range used to show, but with more generosity. It’s quite tasty, whatever the circumstances of its birth. (8/11)

Felton urge

Felton Road 2007 Riesling (Central Otago) – Lots of sugar, front-loaded and obvious, but with the requisite acidity to match it. An explosion of apples follows. Big and long. Wow. (3/09)

Felton-tip pen

Felton Road 2005 Pinot Noir (Central Otago) – Supple but strong-willed, and eminently appealing. Golden beet, grey earth, ripe strawberry, black truffle, and well-integrated spikes of raspberry acidity are flawlessly melded, lingering through a long, steady-state finish. Still very primary, but all the materials for continued life are in place. A lovely wine. (7/08)