Old currency

Bossard “Domaine de l’Ecu” 2003 Muscadet Sèvre & Maine “Sur Lie” “Expression de Gneiss” (Loire) – Thick for a Muscadet (no real surprise there), but in that thickness is a powerful, insistent minerality that has also been concentrated beyond Muscadet’s wont. Dry, then sweet, then dry again…likely, in all cases, a mere illusion of density. One could do a lot worse from mostly-oppressive French 2003s than this bottle. (9/10)

Too young or Thuaud?

Bossard-Thuaud Mousseaux (Loire) – Crushed shells, wet with dewsparkle and showing nothing that could even generously be called fruit. It’s interesting and yet forgettable, and then interesting again as the finish grinds up another handful of bivalves. (10/07)