Where's the girlsberg?

Hiedler 2000 Riesling Gaisberg (Kamptal) – Marshmallow, peat, and bay leaf. Quite advanced. Long, but soft throughout; whatever nerve this wine once had (and if I recall correctly, it wasn’t much) has left the building. I return to it several times over the course of the evening, and again the next day, but all it does is shove more stuffing into the pillow. Drink up. (4/09)

Overdrive

Hiedler 2007 Weissburgunder “Maximum” (Kamptal) – Massive and ripe, yet despite the power and weight giving an impression of utter dryness (which impression may, for all I know, be false). An initially overwhelming avalanche of crushed bones is followed by mirrorball-faceted minerality, sparkling and pulsing. Decrescendos rapidly, but stunning while it lasts. The importer calls this “the best pinot blanc in the world.” It’s not – the finish needs to be longer for that – but it’s certainly in the top rank. (12/08)