The little major

Le Piane 2009 Colline Novaresi “la maggiorina” (Piedmont) – On day one, the “red “riesling” identity of its youth is gone, replaced by a difficult, gauzy, structure-dominated acceleration of dark-toned fruit. Day two brings more familiar elements, dustier tannin, alpine flowers, and sharper acidity. So it depends on what one wants from the wine, I guess: day one, or day two. (8/11)

Novaresivations

Le Piane 2005 Colline Novaresi “La Maggiorina” (Piedmont) – Not quite as bony and red-rieslingish as previous vintages, and while the wine’s less distinctive as a result, it’s also better. There’s some flesh on these bones – still chilly and nanoparticulate in texture – cast in intriguingly dark fruit and floral tones, but not heavy, hard, or even muscular. Rather, there’s elegance, firmness, and stability. A lovely wine. (1/10)

Drum Maggiorina

Le Piane 2004 Colline Novaresi “La Maggiorina” (Piedmont) – Chilly. Even arctic. Cold minerality flows down from the permafrost, slipping over brittle black fruit (paper-thin) and finally breaking on jagged shards of acidity. Even more than before, this is akin to a red riesling, but riesling in its most austere form. Closed or fading? I guess we’ll find out. (5/09)

Piane player

Le Piane 2004 Colline Novaresi “la maggiorina” (Piedmont) – Old vines, 50% nebbiolo, 35% croatina, uva rara, and vespolina, in stainless steel. Mineral-driven to such an extent that I feel like I’m drinking a red riesling. Very dry. Full of dark fruit dust and tart acidity. Very masculine and hard, with a long finish. A striking wine. (3/08)

Le Piane 2003 Colline Novaresi (Piedmont) – From 100-year old pre-phylloxera vines, and a blend of 70% croatina and 30% nebbiolo. Lush orange blossom and stone fruit, balanced except for the vintage’s signature tannin, but dried out on the finish by that same tannin. (3/08)

Le Piane 2004 Colline Novaresi (Piedmont) – Showing (or perhaps revealing) more dirt than the 2003, with a little bit of well-ridden horse, but not what anyone but the most averse would call bretty; the overall impression is more like that of iron-rich blood. Very interesting floral aromatics, with great balance and a longer finish finely delineated by acidity. Very promising. (3/08)

Colline all cars

Le Piane 2004 Colline Novaresi “La Maggiorina” (Piedmont) – Brittle, sharp with acidity, and chilly. But all the more interesting for it. I’ll say it again: this is red riesling…mineral to the core, biting, Teutonic, and precise. And it’s not a cocktail wine. (6/08)