A carefully-butchered row

Filliatreau 2001 Saumur-Champigny “La Grande Vignolle” (Loire) – Brittle. Dark plum, black soil, and then a MIRV-ing explosion of razor wire. Oddly, despite the bloody retribution the wine apparently seeks to enact, I like this wine. But it needs something alongside that can tame both slashing acidity and cutting tannin. (7/11)

Louis Vatan

Vatan “Chateau du Hureau” 2006 Saumur-Champigny “Tuffe” (Loire) – Classically earthy, dark, and intense, with a stylish black dirt texture and a long, breathy finish. Very young, and very good. Utterly, wonderfully dominated by its soil elements. (1/10)

The Hureau of the wolf

P&G Vatan “Chateau du Hureau” 2005 Saumur-Champigny (Loire) – Blackberry in vibrant bursts not always seen among Loire reds…but not to worry, there’s soil, herb, and bite still to be found, along with a significant dusting of black pepper. Forceful. Very good, with potential. (1/09)

Saumur loving

Vatan “Château du Hureau” 2005 Saumur-Champigny (Loire) – Poised and aromatically enticing. Flowers crushed in a loose fist of black earth, with a fine-leafed chervil texture and the suggestion, rather than the actuality, of black fruit. Supple despite an aggressive front. Delicious. (8/08)

Pendulum

Foucault 2002 Saumur-Champigny Clos Rougeard (Loire) – Graphite, thyme, and mint with all the undertones still sub-audible, but clearly present. Throbs with potential. Elegant, with flawless balance, but time will reveal the strength. (2/08)