Ulivi no choice

Bellotti “Cascina degli Ulivi” 2007 Gavi “Filagnotti” (Piedmont) – Spiky, extremely volatile, and with those fetid, cheesy notes that – together with the other qualities – indicate a wine that has undergone some sort of refermentation/spoilage process. There’s a soft but audible pop the first time the cork is removed, and every time thereafter, and the texture has a discernable prickle to it. Alas, because this is a fascinating (albeit somewhat atypical) wine when it’s intact. (2/10)

Ulivi oil

Bellotti “Cascina degli Ulivi” 2006 Gavi (Piedmont) – Asian pear overwhelmed with spice (turmeric, white pepper, mace, clove), zingy and attention-dominating, yet somehow energetically affable and mild-mannered under study. This is a gorgeous, life-affirming blend of complexity and ease, simplicity and sophistication, appeal and mystery. And it’s only the basic bottling; the winery has “better” stuff in reserve. That’s tremendous work. (10/08)

If Ulivi now, you'll take away the biggest part of me

Bellotti "Cascina degli Ulivi" 2006 Gavi (Piedmont) – I misjudged this at a recent tasting, thinking it more simple and easily understood than it actually is. There’s an awful lot going on for a relatively inexpensive, “basic” version of a wine that receives a more elaborate elsewhere at this house. Melon, a swirling blend of white and green tea leaves, full of light and life but with the gentle swish of a foamy, early-morning wave in the mix as well. Really nice. (3/08)

Filagnotti by nature

Bellotti “Cascina degli Ulivi” 2006 Gavi “Filagnotti” (Piedmont) – The nose is sour and leafy, perhaps a bit sauvage, but the palate shows great acidity washing over white minerals. Great presence. Long and solid, with a nutty, almost fino-like element to the finish. (1/08)

Gavi to get

Bellotti “Cascina degli Ulivi” 2006 Gavi (Piedmont) – An intense nose of tropical fruit that drifts away on a salty breeze, to replaced by white melon. The finish is, itself, fairly saline. There’s an interesting, twisted form to the wine that I can’t quite grasp. (1/08)

Gavi McLeod

Ascheri 2003 Gavi (Piedmont) – Leafy and fairly simple, with salty ripe green notes, some moss, perhaps a little particulate melon. Not overblown in the manner of so many ’03s , but lacking much in the way of complexity or interest. (11/07)