Tinky Winky, Dipsy, Laa-Laa, Ampeau

Ampeau 1989 Savigny-les-Beaune (Burgundy) – The pulse and throb of subsurface earth provides a foundation for a deep, glowering wine hinting at both animal and berry in equal measure, and both in the best possible sense. It’s maturing, for certain, and the beautiful aromatics one desires from aged Burgundy are already in evidence, but I don’t sense any hurry in the wine, and so cannot recommend any sort of panicked rush to open what one might own. A very, very pleasant wine. (12/09)

Thunderball

Jadot 2002 Savigny-lès-Beaune La Dominode (Burgundy) – Pointed, razor-leafed raspberry and a fair bit of tannin. A sharply-formed wine, perhaps a little brittle at the moment, but with lovely fruit within. Promising. And also, a question: what’s with the “è”? (7/09)