As the Crozes flies

Desmeure “Domaine des Remizières” 1999 Crozes-Hermitage “Cuvée Christophe” (Rhône) – Sour and fecal, in a way few wines are these days. Significant Band-Aid as well. It’s like a masterclass in brett. Underneath – way underneath – there’s leathery meat-fruit that’s significantly lighter than one might think, and good structure. But there’s no getting past the ass. (1/09)