Vareij is the spice of life

Hilberg-Pasquero 2005 “Vareij” (Piedmont) – Smooth blue fruit, candied and dull as hell. Everything interesting has been buffed and polished and ground from this wine, leaving a core of emptiness. The tedium is immeasurable. This is brachetto?!? (with some barbera, but still…) (10/08)