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Oppida Aminea “Caucino” 2005 Greco Sannio (Campania) – Ashen and somewhat oxidized…not, I think, unintentionally…and thus the wine flows more like lava than like water across the palate. Bronzed carnations, perhaps? Like drinking ruins. (1/10)

Ain't that Tufo 'nuf?

Mastroberardino 2004 Greco di Tufo “Nova Serra” (Campania) – Dried-out fruit over ash. Short, a little acrid, and disappointing. (8/09)

Joey Fatalone

Pasquale Petrera “Fatalone” 2005 Gioia del Colle Bianco “Spinomarino” Murgia Greco (Apulia) – White ash, intense and exotic, showing melon, lilies, and dandelions. Very complex and perfumed. Fairly long. Slightly sweet? It doesn’t detract; this is a really impressive wine. (2/07)

Spumante hall

Dessilani “Collefino” Spumante (Piedmont) – The house pour, this sparkling wine made from Greco is simple, floral, clean and quite nice. I could drink a lot of this and not notice…a mixed blessing, to be sure…but in a more contemplative setting it might be possible to discover something beyond these surface impressions.