A Forez into the unknown

Verdier-Logel 2006 Côtes du Forez “Cuvée des Gourmets” (Loire) – Unmistakably gamay. Red fruit done in metallic shades, hints and dashes of herb, and a lively freshness full of spark and verve. There’s some dusty lead around the edges, as well. Quite linear, and the wine doesn’t reward careful study, but it’s certainly tasty. (3/09)