On the Lamm

Hirsch 2004 Grüner Veltliner Lamm (Kamptal) – About 25% as rich as the lush 2005, but still with plenty of weight and heft. Celery leaves, Buddha’s hand rind, coconut cream, and a fine, crisp balance with an intensity and presence. This could be better (witness the 2005), but it’s fairly classic as it stands; the only real flaw is a descent to peppery acridity in the finish. (5/08)