Lieder of the pack

von Schubert’schen 1983 Maximin Grünhauser Herrenberg Riesling Auslese 31 84 (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) – Old but still vibrant. Jacketed in copper and other, brassier metals, with a palate that recalls a youth of orangesicle sorbet and strawberry. An impressive life must have been led to arrive at this point, and the complexities and suddenly-remembered tales keep one coming back again and again. (12/09)

Maximin overdrive

von Schubert’sche 1992 Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Auslese 48 93 (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) – Severe but incredibly long, with metal in cylinder, shard, and liquid forms, all dusted with aspirin. (6/08)