Merciful Zuss

Zusslin 2007 Pinot d’Alsace Auxerrois (Alsace) – Many a pinot blanc from Alsace shows clearly how it benefits from the thicker, spicier weight of auxerrois as a blending grape. Thus, it’s no surprise that the reverse is also true; auxerrois, on its own, can be a little heavy and deadening for its own good, despite a surplus of exciting flavors. This wine manages more lightness than is usual for the grape, but does it at the sacrifice of the more developed spice and stone fruit aromas that comprise the grape’s appeal in the region. OK, but only just. (10/09)

The Wormeldange turns

Clos des Rochers 2006 Wormeldange Nusssbaum Auxerrois “Grand Premier Cru” (Luxembourg) – Borg pear, more metallic than organic, with a slash of turmeric and coriander. Fair length, good structure, and of quite surprising origin. Worth a second look. (7/08)