Heroes

Vullien 2009 Vin de Savoie Montmélian (Savoie) – Stern, rocky, firm. Somewhat above it all. But the ground lemon-glass texture and grayscale minerality are quite appealing. (6/11)

Steve

Carrel & Fils 2009 Jongieux (Savoie) – Like snow on a seashore, crisp and flaking, a brittle carapace disintegrating around a wet, slightly saline chill. Someone might once have walked on this beach carrying a lime, but they left with it ages ago. The stark absence of this wine is very appealing. (8/10)

Chignin-up

Raymond Quenard 2004 Chignin (Savoie) – Biting and overly brittle, showing iced-acid structure and bitter, rindy fruit. This bottle has character to spare, but I find it oddly repellent. (8/07)