Albares necessities

Dominio de Tares 2003 Bierzo “Albares” (Northwest Spain) – There’s a struggle here, in that a wine that wants to be lighter and more aromatic tries to, but cannot, escape an inherent gravity that no doubt comes from the vintage. There are hints of enticing crushed-petal aromatics, but they’re sensed only through shadow and density, rather than in full burst and bloom. It’s a good wine, but the weight it carries can’t quite be supported by its skeleton or flesh. (2/09)

Exalted

Dominio de Tares 2003 Bierzo “Exaltos Cepas Viejas” (Northwest Spain) – Overwhelmed with coconut and vanilla, which completely obscure any other characteristics in the wine. Just no good. (6/08)

Carlos Mencía

Dominio de Tares 2004 Bierzo Mencía “Baltos” (Northwest Spain) – Hard-edged and somewhat angry fruit, biggie-sized, full of dark scowls and moody mutterings. There’s some structure here, but it’s glimpsed in brief moments when the murk clears, rather than felt in support of the whole. Promising aromatics don’t quite survive the gloom, and the finish is gnarled. Difficult to assess. (4/08)

Cepas from ourselves

Dominio de Tares 2001 Bierzo “Cepas Viejas” (Northwest Spain) – Graphite and the darkest black dust (fruit? earth? coal? hard to tell). Strong but not strident, with the sweet scent of wood in the majority but not overpowering. While this will certainly last longer, I don’t know enough about it to judge whether or not the fruit – such as it is – will make a comeback; my guess is that it won’t, but I can’t say for sure. (3/08)