Alary 2005 Côtes-du-Rhône “La Gerbaude” (Rhône) – Smells like a Trappist ale, or perhaps a lambic…yes, there’s brett, which is here expressed more as bitterness than mammalian posterior. Also: meat, blood, black olive, and cassis. In addition to the gauzy scrape of brett, there’s a good deal of tannin. For all this, the wine’s solid and well-built, and should be ageable. The brett-averse should probably stay away, however. (3/08)
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