Still Ormousseaux

Veneau “Domaine des Ormousseaux” 2005 Coteaux du Giennois (Loire) – 80% pinot noir, 20% gamay. There’s a delicate, yearning sweetness (not the sugary kind) to the red fruit here, which is then lifted by a spikier, crisper take on the same general palette of berries; I’m attributing this to the grapes, because it would seem to fit their personalities. Flaky and brittle when the minerality shows, but shyly pretty otherwise. I am enormously fond of this wine…and “fond” is the perfect word here. (3/08)