Ithaca Beer Company “Brute” Golden Sour Ale (New York) – In the style of an authentic lambic, but dialed back from the dizzying flaws-as-attributes intensity of, say, Cantillon. It’s certainly sour, and bretty, and rounded by barrel-conditioning, but it’s been gentled just enough to act as a fine transitional stage between commercial lambics and the angrier sort. Frankly, it’s outstanding, and I’d never peg it as domestic. But now, the greed: while this beer is very good as-is, I’d be interested to see them try a kreik. (4/09)
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