Rollr drby

Yorkville Cellars 2006 “Hi-Rollr Red” (Yorkville Highlands) – This, rather than the usual confected android soup, is the sort of cheap California wine that should be produced in zillion-gallon quantities: a huge burst of easy-to-understand fruit, a little off-dry (or at least, so it seems)…round, plush, and fun. Unfortunately, it’s about twice what I think one should pay for such a wine. At a shade under $20, a price that asks for a certain amount of seriousness, it’s too goofily simple-minded and sticky. (3/09)