10 December 2008

Schröck & awe

[vineyard]Heidi Schröck 2006 Muscat (Austria) – Actually 40% gelber muskateller, 40% sauvignon blanc, and 20% muscat ottonel. Quite reduced (under screwcap), and offensively stinky when first opened; this takes a good long while to blow off, and I’m not sure it ever quite abandons the wine. Nor am I a fan of the blend…the sauvignon has all its sharp edges filed off by the muscat, while the muscat delivers a pale shadow of its usual aromatic exuberance thanks to the guillotine effect of the sauvignon blanc. Is there a point to this wine? (12/08)

No comments: