Mills Reef 2003 Sauvignon Blanc “Reserve” (Hawke’s Bay) – The wood here isn’t apparent on the nose or palate, but it files off all the variety’s signature edges, leaving a smoother, rounder core of greenish-yellow fruit. Which has, in turn, been diminished by age, leaving a pleasant and somewhat creamy layer of something a little more stone fruited in its wake. This is probably at the end of its useful life, and it’s definitely a low-volume wine, so proceed accordingly. (12/08)
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