Pinot & Zooty

Trimbach 2004 Pinot Blanc (Alsace) – Supple apricot with a slight molten iron edge to it, and there’s acidity, yet the wine is largely free of edges, corners, or bends. I don’t quite know how they work this voodoo. As an Alsatian pinot blanc, it’s still more blanc-influenced than auxerrois-dominated and good in that paradigm, but it will never seem striking in contrast to, say, a Boxler. (7/08)