Mordorée or less

Delorme “Domaine de la Mordorée” 2006 Côtes-du-Rhône “La Dame Rousse” (Rhône) – Very, very intense, squinching dark fruit, wet black leather, and woodsmoke into a tightly balled-up fist of pan-Rhône character. This is no easy-drinking Côtes-du-Rhône, and in fact would seem to be asking for a good rest in the cellar, but the raw and youthful materials are fairly impressive. (3/08)