Varese

Bernstein “Sarabande” 2005 Côtes du Roussillon Villages (Roussillon) – Black pepper and a touch of ash dominate a reticent nose. The palate suggests more generosity, but identifying the largesse is almost impossible. Dark fruit? Tar? It’s very hard to say, because nothing actually presents itself. It’s a big wine with little to say. That aside, it’s pleasant enough, and would be fine as a countrified cheapie. At $15, however, it’s a little weak. (12/07)