Hess 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Allomi (Napa Valley) – Obviousness personified, and though the wine has more of cabernet’s tobacco signature than most of its pushed-ripeness, overoaked, over-merloted brethren, there’s an unfortunate satisfaction with that state: it tastes like fermented tobacco wine rather than something made from grapes. Plenty of structure, especially tannin, so this will last a good long while. I have no idea what it will develop into, though. An ashtray? (7/08)
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