Marchese Lodovico “Ornellaia” 1996 Bolgheri “Superiore” (Tuscany) – A slick European playboy in an impossibly expensive suit, with a jutting jaw, gelled hair, and a just so shadow of precisely-manicured whiskers. Yet the suit, the hair, and the grooming wrap an entity without substance or interest. And worse, aside from the first highly-appealing impression, closer study reveals that the guy just isn’t that attractive after all. It’s all artifice. It’s all for show. It doesn’t mean anything, and you certainly don’t want to have a conversation with it. (6/08)
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