Fonné pages

Meyer-Fonné 2005 Pinot Blanc “Vieilles Vignes” (Alsace) – Fattish apricot and breakfast spice (I think there must be a good deal of auxerrois in here), with light sweetness and just enough acid to keep it from being cloying. The finish also seems auxerrois-dominated in that it’s fairly long and sticky (not in the sugary sense), which is often a signature of the variety. There’s intensity, too – probably an artifact of the older vines – and that, more than anything else, moves this wine in a positive direction. Sugar-haters won’t like this much, and indeed I’d prefer it a little drier as well, but it’s a solid expression of the modern Alsatian style. (10/07)