David Ortiz

Corte dei Papi 2007 Cesanese del Piglio Colle Ticchio (Lazio) – Hard-edged, as if shelled, with a slather of dark, brooding fruit once one penetrates the exterior difficulties. Tastes as much like the Platonic idea of a Madiran (whatever the reality) than anything from Lazio, albeit with a lessening of the tannin in relation to the wine’s other elements. I’d like to explore this with a little more age, or at least air. (2/10)