Nuclear Vesselle

Jean Vesselle Champagne Brut “Réserve” (Champagne) – Unmistakably red-fruited, even more so than many rosé Champagnes, with a corollary decline in the contributions made by both fizz and autolysis. Yet it’s not a simple wine either, it’s just somewhat primary, with crisp apple-infused acidity and a direct, blinders-on charge forward on the palate. Time should turn this even redder. (1/10)