Dard & Ribo 2006 St-Joseph (Rhône) – Wrenched and writhing, squirting its dark fruit every which way, but never achieving any sort of focus or direction. There’s a heavy stench of brett, as well, which is strong enough to detract despite the wine’s muscularity. This needs time, for sure, but unfortunately it will never shed its manure. (5/09)
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