Rosi cheeks

Rosi 2004 Marzemino “Riserva” (Trentino) – Difficult, and by that I don’t mean to criticize the wine. But it’s difficult. Angular yet muscular (not quite wiry; more like a Romanian gymnast), it broods in darkness and sullen faux-apathy, seemingly uncaring as to its performance. But it lingers, hanging around to – at last – give a hint of aromatic fruit, of earth, of graphite, of mountain blossoms. All the elements seem in balance, but there’s nothing of coherence or approachability to be found. Obviously, it requires time. It’s not very enjoyable now. (8/08)