19 September 2008

Part of a llon

[bottle]Brokenwood 2005 Semillon (Hunter Valley) – 10.5%! Less angry and resentful than most Hunter semillon, but I don’t think the ageability is hurt by it. There’s grass and skin here, with a June-sweat acridity and considerable palate presence, yet the finish is exquisitely balanced. It’s forward, as befits a New World wine, but check out that alcohol level. This doesn’t achieve the iconoclastic brilliance of the Tyrell’s “Vat 1,” but it’s very fine on its own merits. (9/08)


Anonymous said...

Yeah, the 04-07 semillon vintages all around the Hunter were 'beneficiaries' (depending on your outlook) of the mostly warm drought-like conditions. The 08s were picked while dodging the raindrops - I rather slackly haven't tasted any yet, but am expecting more of a return to the battery acid style.

thor iverson said...

Thank goodness. I'd hate to think that these things were becoming drinkable in their youth!