What's white and red all over?

Laurent Barth 2006 Pinot d’Alsace “100% Pinot Noir” (Alsace) – Yes, it’s a “white” pinot noir, though the color is actually closer to red-tinged bronze. I’ve seen pinot gris almost this dark, after extended skin contact, but this wine comes by its unusual color more naturally. And the aroma is that of a really fine blend of spiced pear pinot gris and red-fruited, floral pinot noir, leaning more towards the latter than the former. Palate-wise, it could use a lot more noir; it’s fat and thick, like a pushed-ripeness gris, with little compensating acidity. It’s a fascinating oddity, and one for blind tastings, but it’s fairly boring after the first glass. (4/08)